Wednesday, 18 October 2006

The Inca Trail

We went with a company called Llama Path, who focus on sustainable tourism and making sure the porters get a fair deal. Our guides were Jose (head guide) and Alex (assistant guide, in training)

Jose believes the inca trail is a spiritual journey intended for the various peoples the incas conquered. The idea being that on this journey the incas could indoctrinate those people into their religion. He believes Machu Pichu was a university of idolatry or in other words the centre for religious affairs, where the idols of the conquered peoples were taken (sort of as hostage to force them to take the journey).

Each of the major ruins on the trail have a purpose whether it be to control the flow of people using the trail, to feed the travellers, or as a place to teach spiritual things, and cleanse the body and soul (using the various sacred baths located at each site)

Day1 - An easy walk along the Incan flats (or in other words several small ups and downs.. there is no such thing as flat in these mountains)

The team at kilometer 82 the starting point for the inca trail. From left to right: Francine & Mark (UK), Gerry & Sherry (US), Michael (Ireland / US), Peter (Australia), Me & Erin (NZ) and Stephen & Rachel (UK). I apologise if I have spelt (or even got) any of your names wrong, I am terrible with names!

The first major Incan ruin, this is the snake city, notice 3 levels of terracing in a wavy pattern, this represents the snake. An important figure in Incan spiritual belief. Jose believes this was a control station as it is situated at the intersection of 4 major trails and has guard/lookout towers situated around it.

An incan burial site. The incan worshipped the mountains and buried their dead on the moutainside.

Day 2 - The killer. A 5 hour uphill to 4200 metres then 600m desent to camp. Lunch was half way up the 5 hour climb.

Breaking camp on the start of day 2.

As soon as Jose mentioned a possible side trip Erin just had to go. It was an easy walk, a 2 hour round trip that we probably could have completed in 1 hour, had we walked a little faster.

Climbing up hill, in the hot sun, at altitude is hard.. believe me.

At least part of the climb is under some nice bush.

The last part of the climb to Dead Womans Pass

The view down from the top.

We made it, finally, 4200 metres.

And now, back down the other side.. *sigh*

They have toi-toi here!

At least the views are spectacular

Day 3 - The longest day, starts with a bit of a climb, then some down, then some up, then some down, then a long incan flat, then a whole lot of down.

A waypoint for incan runners. The incas has no written language (as far as we know) but used a series of strings and knots to count supplies, people, etc. The Inca (king) used these counts to govern his people.

More spectacular views.

The second large ruin. 3 spiritual baths are present here, also an altar for sacrafice.

After lunch on the second part of the trail we spied a skink

This part of the trail includes a tunnel carved out of the rock.

The third major ruin, 5 spiritual baths and a temple in the shape of a scorpion (similar to the snake in Incan belief).

Oh look, more steps downwards.

We took *another* side trip, this time to the Incan farm land.. remember there is no such thing as flat land here, so, the Incas built some. Each terrace contains a drainage system consisting of a layer of large stones, covered by smaller stones, then sand, then the rich dark soil. These guys were very clever.

 

The last major ruin before Machu Pichu, this one has 11 baths and a much larger temple. Included are some photos of us instead, due to popular demand (Ross).

4th day - Up at 3:30am, a quick breakfast and then off to the checkpoint. We wanted to be the first there so we could be the first on the trail to make it to the sun gate at sunrise. All the other groups camped here had the same idea but we managed to get the drop on them all.

Unfortunately after 3 days of perfect weather day 4 decided to rain. So, no sunrise and not such a picture perfect postcard view of Machu Pichu.

Depending who you ask, this is either the sun temple, or the tomb of the Inca who built Machu Pichu. Jose believes it is both.

Some of the stone work is quite amazing. They often built with the existing rock, some say because they worshipped the rock and stone, I think maybe it was just easier.

The rain cloud did give some impressive views.

Ok, 3rd side trip. This time we climbed this crazy tall hill for a view of Machu Pichu through the clouds.

After 10am the crowds of people started to pour in .. all wearing thier plastic ponchos, in every concievable colour, available everywhere for around 2 soles.

Last side trip, this time to the Inca bridge. It appears they had to build up the side of the cliff face with square bricks before placing the bridge across the gap, incredible.

And that as they say is that. By the end I was quite sick of ruins, and walking, especially walking. Erin was still ready to take yet another side trip, 2 hours there and 2 hours back but luckily we did not have time.

One final note for all those contemplating the Inca trail, it is hard, harder than you might think, especially due to the altitude and the fact that everything is either up, or down, and neither is actually easy. Up is hard and slow. Down quickly becomes tiresome and painful on your knees.

Two of the group had to be carried by the porters most/all of the way from day 2 onward and all of our group had sore knees by the end. Erin and I had 2 walking poles each which I definately recommend, it allows you to take some of the strain off your knees.

So, if you are thinking of doing it I recommend training for it, it is far better to endure some pain training at home than to have a hard time on the trail iteself. You want the trail to be fun, not torture.

m fuller: hullo,I have replyed to your email.am enjoying the photos etc.,it is a thrill to feel as though I am travelling with you,hope everthing is ok with you, take care.love from Granddad,ooxx. (10/24/06)

ross: hey those really are some fantastic looking photos. the ruins look really... ruined. At least you guys'll be well fit for the rest of your trip, i particularly liked the one of regans walking expression :) and the hat... i love the hat. (10/21/06)

Josie: Hey E & R, Wow, the Inca trail looked amazing...I dont think I could ever complete such a challenging hike...u must be really stoked! Take care Jose (10/19/06)

Rochelle: Wow Guys, What an amazing experience. I had a friend who did this same trip a couple of years ago and has said the same things as you. But it must be worth the pain and sore body to be somewhere so old and full of an unbelivable history. I love popping in here to see whats happening well done for keeping us all informed. Good to see Grandad putting in the odd comment too. Have fun. Love Rochelle, Warrick, Rhianna and Sophia (10/26/06)

Sue and Tom: So all that training was worth it, eh! Has Regan regretted not having waterproof pants yet?! The ruins are astounding. What an amazing trip. Sounds as if Erin's knees are hanging together as well as anyone else's. This blog thing is a great idea, almost feels like being there. (10/19/06)

Michele: Just stunning! Also, I like your narrative - suspect I will remember more of your historical lessons than those I might read in a text book. (10/29/06)

Juanita: Wow! My favorite photo was the plastic ponchos! I would really like a purple one 4 xmas (not!). Erin I hope Regan didn't complain too much about having to walk all the way, and hope he didn't get too wet. His pants are still warm and dry in the airing cupboard! :-) It is amazing how advanced the culture was back then. (10/19/06)